
I’ve decided competing only gets better with age. Nervousness fades away, excitement begins to equalize rather than come in spikes and lows, and appreciation for the problems deepens as new moves and new styles develop from the experience and gradual rise of stronger setters.
The only low is the sentimental twinge for the days I could train without restraint, pulling and hang-boarding and campusing for hours without worry of an injury. Nowadays, if I should let myself go nuts to a Mumford&Sons album in the weight room upstairs at the Spot Bouldering Gym, the lasting soreness from muscle tears lasts for days.
Yet old inspirations always find a way to bring back motivation to push harder. After Teva Games in Vail, I felt a severe lack of body fitness and endurance, and wanted to puke after Women’s Problem #3. I made the decision I had to start running.
And I did. But not the 9 or 15 mi runs I used to do in the night, when cold temperatures kept my muscles fresh.
In a more routine fashion I ran 4mi, 4x a week, sometimes 4 days in a row.
Now, running feels amazing. And I do it on my rest days. With this kind of conditioning, I hope to achieve my best fitness, so I can eat whatever I want again. And not freaking yogurt and muesli every day.


